Bun rieu is a bit of a hidden gem next to its famous cousin pho – a rustic tomato-based broth studded with a light, fluffy crab and egg cake that sits somewhere between a dumpling and an omelette. It's earthy, a little funky from fermented shrimp paste, and deeply comforting once you get a bowl of it in front of you.
Traditionally the crab cake is made from freshwater field crab, but tinned crab meat combined with pork mince and egg gives a really good approximation at home, and is far easier to track down at the local shops. The tomato broth gets its gorgeous colour and flavour from annatto oil and plenty of ripe tomato, simmered until it's rich and slightly sweet-savoury.
Serve it the traditional way – ladled over rice vermicelli with fresh herbs, bean sprouts, a squeeze of lime and a good dollop of chilli paste for those who like it hot. It's a proper weekend cooking project, but every bit worth it.