Bossam is Korean entertaining at its most fun, a whole piece of pork belly gently poached with aromatics until meltingly tender, then sliced thin and piled onto a platter for everyone to wrap themselves. Lettuce or napa cabbage leaves, a dab of salty fermented shrimp or ssamjang, and a forkful of tangy radish salad, and you've got the perfect bite.
The poaching liquid, scented with garlic, ginger, doenjang and a bay leaf or two, keeps the pork moist while pulling out excess fat, leaving the meat rich but not greasy. It's a bit of a project, but almost all of it is unattended simmering time.
This is a brilliant one for a casual dinner party. Set everything out on the table and let guests build their own wraps.