Indonesian

Ayam Betutu (Balinese Spiced Chicken)

Name: Ayam Betutu (Balinese Spiced Chicken)
Prep time: 30 min
Cook time: 90 min
Total time: 120 min
Yield: 4
Cuisine: Indonesian

Bali's famous slow-cooked chicken, smothered in a fiery yellow base genep spice paste of turmeric, galangal, chilli and candlenut until it falls off the bone. A home oven version of the festival dish.

Serves

Prep

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Ingredients

Pantry bits

Candlenuts (Kemiri)

Fermented shrimp paste

Palm Sugar

White Pepper

1.4kg chicken pieces on the bone (marylands, thighs and drumsticks), skin on
1 tbsp lime juice
8 red Asian shallots, chopped
6 garlic cloves
6 long red chillies, chopped
5 bird's eye chillies (or to taste)
4cm piece fresh turmeric, peeled (or 2 tsp ground)
4cm piece galangal, peeled and sliced
3cm piece ginger, peeled
3cm piece kencur (aromatic ginger), optional
2 lemongrass stalks, pale part only, sliced
5 candlenuts (kemiri)
1 tsp fermented shrimp paste, toasted
1 tsp coriander seeds, toasted
1/2 tsp ground white pepper
1 tbsp grated palm sugar
1 1/2 tsp salt
3 tbsp neutral oil
4 makrut (kaffir) lime leaves, torn
2 salam leaves (Indonesian bay leaves), optional
1 cup (250ml) water or chicken stock
Large pieces of banana leaf or baking paper and foil, for wrapping

Instructions

Rub the chicken with the lime juice and a pinch of salt and set aside.
Blend the shallots, garlic, chillies, turmeric, galangal, ginger, kencur, lemongrass, candlenuts, shrimp paste, coriander seeds, white pepper, palm sugar and salt to a smooth paste, adding a splash of the oil to help it along.
Heat the remaining oil in a wok over medium heat. Add the paste, lime leaves and salam leaves and fry, stirring often, for 8-10 minutes until the paste darkens, smells cooked and the oil starts to separate.
Add the chicken and turn to coat it all over. Pour in the water, bring to a simmer and cook for 10 minutes, turning the pieces.
Heat the oven to 160°C. Lay the chicken and all the paste on a double layer of banana leaf (softened briefly over a flame) or baking paper, wrap tightly and then wrap again in foil. Place in a roasting dish.
Bake for 1 hour 15 minutes, until the chicken is very tender.
Open the parcel, turn the oven up to 220°C and roast for another 10-15 minutes so the paste caramelises in spots. Serve with steamed rice, sambal matah and green beans.

About this dish

Ayam betutu is one of Bali's great ceremonial dishes. A whole chicken or duck is stuffed and smothered with base genep, the Balinese "complete" spice paste, wrapped in banana leaves and slow-cooked in embers for hours. The result is incredibly tender meat and a thick, fiery, turmeric-yellow paste that tastes of everything at once.

This home version uses chicken pieces and a low oven, but keeps the important parts: a proper spice paste with candlenuts and toasted shrimp paste, fried until fragrant, then a long, slow, wrapped cook. Serve it Bali-style with rice, sambal matah and stir-fried green beans. For more Indonesian chicken, try ayam bakar or opor ayam.

Tips for the best result

Fry the paste until it really darkens and the oil separates. Raw paste tastes harsh and bitter.
Wrap tightly. The parcel steams the chicken in its own juices, which is what makes it so tender.
Fresh turmeric gives the brightest colour and flavour, and is easy to find at Asian grocers and farmers' markets in Australia. Wear gloves, as it stains.
Make the paste a day ahead; the flavour improves overnight.

Substitutions

Candlenuts: macadamias are the usual substitute and work well.
Kencur and salam leaves: both are optional. Use a little extra ginger and a bay leaf instead.
Slow cooker: after step 4, cook on low for 5-6 hours, then grill the chicken briefly to caramelise the paste.
Milder: remove the seeds from the long chillies and leave out the bird's eye chillies.

Storage

Ayam betutu keeps in the fridge for 3 days and tastes even better the next day. It freezes well for up to 2 months. Reheat, covered, in a 170°C oven or gently in a pan with a splash of water.

Ayam betutu FAQs

What is base genep?

It is the master spice paste of Balinese cooking, usually made from shallot, garlic, chilli, turmeric, galangal, ginger, kencur, lemongrass, candlenut, shrimp paste and spices. It flavours most Balinese meat and vegetable dishes.