Yum Nua (Thai Grilled Beef Salad)

1. Take the steak out of the fridge 30 minutes ahead. Rub with the oil and season with salt.
2. Grill or pan-fry over the fiercest heat you can manage, 3 minutes a side for medium-rare with a proper char. Rest for 5 minutes.
3. While it rests, whisk the lime juice, fish sauce and palm sugar until the sugar dissolves, then stir in the chilli and garlic.
4. Slice the steak thinly across the grain and tip it, with any resting juices, into a large bowl.
5. Add the red onion, cucumber, tomatoes and half the herbs. Pour over the dressing and toss gently with your hands.
6. Pile onto a plate, scatter with the remaining herbs, spring onion and toasted rice powder, and serve at room temperature.

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Notes:

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• Dress the beef while it's warm — it absorbs far more of the dressing than cold beef will
• Taste the dressing before it goes on. It should be aggressively sour and salty, because the beef and vegetables mute it
• Toasted rice powder is easy to make: dry-toast raw jasmine rice until golden, then grind