Rad Na is Pad See Ew's saucier sibling – the same wide rice noodles, but instead of being tossed dry they are blanketed in a glossy, savoury gravy thick with pork and gai lan. It is the comfort order on every Thai noodle shop menu.
The secret is treating it as two dishes that meet on the plate. The noodles get charred separately in a screaming hot wok with a little dark soy so they pick up smoky colour, then the gravy is built in the same pan and poured over at the last second. Combine them too early and the noodles go soft.
Thai cooks put four condiments on the table for this – chilli flakes, sugar, fish sauce and chilli vinegar – so everyone can tune their own bowl. Do the same and it will taste exactly like the shop.