Pad woon sen is the underrated hero of the Thai takeaway menu. Slippery, springy glass noodles soak up a savoury sauce of oyster, soy and fish sauce, tangled with chicken, softly scrambled egg and crisp vegetables.
It's lighter than pad thai, milder than most stir fries, and it's the dish everyone at the table fights over. The mung bean noodles stay bouncy rather than starchy, which makes it dangerously easy to eat.
At home it's a genuine 25-minute dinner. Soak the noodles while you chop, get the wok ripping hot, and the actual cooking takes less than ten minutes.