Vietnamese Garlic Noodles

1. Cook the noodles in boiling water until just tender. Scoop out a cup of the cooking water before draining.
2. Mix the oyster sauce, fish sauce, soy sauce and sugar in a small bowl.
3. Melt the butter in a large frying pan over low heat. Add the garlic and cook gently for 3–4 minutes until soft, fragrant and barely coloured. Do not let it brown.
4. Add the sauce mixture and let it bubble for 30 seconds.
5. Add the drained noodles and toss hard, adding splashes of the noodle water until the sauce clings and turns glossy.
6. Off the heat, toss through most of the parmesan. Serve with the rest scattered over, plenty of black pepper and the spring onion.

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Notes:

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• Low and slow on the garlic. Browned garlic turns the whole dish bitter
• The starchy noodle water is what emulsifies the butter into a sauce rather than a puddle
• Parmesan is not a mistake — it is in the original