Moo goo gai pan is the gentlest thing on a Cantonese takeaway menu and, done properly, one of the best. No dark sauce, no sugar, just chicken and mushrooms in a light garlic and ginger gravy that lets the vegetables taste like themselves.
The velveting step is what separates a good version from a rubbery one. Two minutes with cornflour and egg white gives the chicken breast a silky coat that keeps it tender through the heat of the wok.
