Hiyashi chuka is what every ramen shop in Japan switches to the moment summer arrives. Cold noodles are rinsed under running water until they squeak, then fanned out under neat rows of ham, cucumber, tomato and shredded omelette so the finished bowl looks like a colour wheel.
There are two classic dressings. The soy and vinegar version is sharp and light, but the one people queue for is goma dare, a creamy sesame sauce that clings to every strand. It takes about two minutes to whisk together and turns a plate of cold noodles into something substantial.
Everything here can be prepped ahead and kept in the fridge, which makes it an ideal hot-weather dinner or a very smart lunchbox. Use whatever is crisp and in season - blanched bean sprouts, snow peas and corn are all fair game.
